Hungary’s wine heart is Tokaj in the north-east, one of the world’s oldest classified wine regions and the home of its most celebrated sweet wines. The Hungarian selection the Montague family brings in is led by Tokaji Aszú, the golden, lusciously sweet dessert wine made from botrytised grapes and graded for sweetness on the traditional puttonyos scale, as happy with blue cheese as with a fruit tart at the close of a meal. Every wine is tasted and chosen by Drew and Tim Montague, father and son.


